hotel crush diaries
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Everything I knew about Cuba came from Dirty Dancing: Havana Nights, so it's safe to say I didn't know much (the movie wasn't even filmed in Cuba). I did know however that the stuck-in-time neighborhoods and cars spoke to me. The dancing at La Rosa Negra made me want to be a part of the rich, colorful culture.
In 2017, when I found out that travel to Cuba was now accepted, I immediately wanted to book a trip. I talked my father and brother into going with me and booked my ticket for a late April adventure.
The trip couldn't have been better timing because I recently got laid off from my job. I needed an escape to a place that was so far off the grid, where I didn't have to worry about what was next. I packed my bags and said goodbye to my old daily routine and experiences and was ready for something totally new.
The first thing I want to say about traveling to Cuba is to just do it while you can, especially for Americans. When I traveled to Cuba, I was able to go under the “people-to-people” visa category, which was removed under the President Trump administration. In its place, the current most popular category is the “support for the Cuban people”.
We are still in a very special place right now where tourism is still relatively new in the country (especially as the regulations change for Americans basically every four years) that you can get a real experience of what this beautiful island really is like. Not far from now it will be completely changed. Yes, tourism and gentrification will help the country and its people, but I wanted to experience Cuba before significant changes were made or before it was too late for travel.
I horseback rode through the mountains of Viñales, spent a night walking along the Malecón with a local, had a home cooked Cuban meal in a family’s apartment, salsa danced at a club, drank endless amounts of mojitos… I loved it so much, I returned a second time for a solo trip a year later, reconnecting with the locals I had made friends with the first time around.
Boutique
Gardens Havana. One of the newer boutique hotels in Cuba, opened in 2019, features a team comprising two Brits and a local Cuban friend who took an incredibly thoughtful and localized approach to restoring this old home. They not only hired Cubans—specifically locals from the same neighborhood—to help build the hotel but also repurposed local tiles and materials and handcrafted the hotel’s furniture. The hotel spans four floors, with the top floor boasting a coveted rooftop terrace and pool. Traveling with a large group or family? You can rent the entire residence or individual floors. A stay here feels like stepping into a local’s home, complete with unique amenities such as an honor bar, cozy reading nooks, a music room, and more.
A|S Boutique Residence. Situated in San Isidro*,* what TimeOut Magazine named one of the 51 coolest neighborhoods in the world, this privately owned luxury boutique hotel is a fantastic option for the guest that want’s to have a bit more of a local experience but not skimp on quiet luxury. You’ll find just nine suites, plus the Grand Salon, in addition to some shared living spaces and a rooftop. There’s also a great cafe and art gallery on the ground floor that is open to non-guests and locals.
Elvira, Mi Amor. An intimate boutique hotel that celebrates the essence of Havana through its 1950s original architecture and local design influences . The hotel feels almost more like a bed and breakfast with cozy rooms, fresh daily breakfast, wifi, two communal living rooms, and a full kitchen for guest use. Don’t forget to explore their terrace for 360 views of the city.
Luxury
Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski La Habana.** Opened in 2017, this first and really the only luxury hotel in the city. If you’re looking for a luxury experience in Havana, rest assured you can happily stop the search here. With 246 rooms and suites, a rooftop infinity pool, wellness spa, multiple fine-dining restaurants…this place is a bit unheard. Walk out of the lavish lobby and through the front doors, and you'll find yourself in the heart of Old Havana, right by Parque Central (Central Park). You’re also just steps away from Cuba’s most famous bar and Hemingway’s favorite, La Floridita. I brought two local Cuban friends there, and they couldn’t believe it.
Hotel Saratoga was once the crown jewel of luxury accommodations in the city (Beyonce stayed here!) but suffered from a gas leak explosion and an uncertain future.
Cristo de la Habana. This is a massive statue of Jesus that you have to take a ferry to get to. The ferry is super cheap and quick and once you get to Casablanca it's easy to find the statue. While you're there, make your way all the way to the end to the lighthouse and Castillo del Morro. If you're not into walking (it can take about 30 minutes to get the the very end), there are plenty of cars that you can grab to drive you down there.
Museo de la Revolución. Whether you like museums of not, this is recommend by all locals to stop at. It's housed in the former presidential palace and is a great spot to learn some of Cuba's history and more about Castro and Che.
Malecón. Long seawall that stretches five miles from Vedado to Old Havana. Popular hang out spot at night to drink and listen to music.
Fusterlandia. Created by Cuban artist José Fuster, who slowly started decorating his neighborhood with colorful mosaic, this place quickly became a destination to visit in Havana. If Gaudí and Picasso had a baby and it was dropped in the middle of Havana - this is what you'd get.
Havana Free Walking Tour (Old Havana). Every time I go to a new country, I try to look for a free walking tour. Free tours are great because 1. They are free. 2. Since it's free, the tour guides typically are very passionate and fun. 3. It's nice to kick off your trip with a little bit of history and helps you get a lay of the land.
Viñales. I'd highly recommend making time for a day trip (or even longer) to somewhere outside of Havana. I chose Viñales, which is probably the most popular destination. The travel time to the countryside is about two hours and there are plenty of tours you can chose from that will take you there in a private classic car. I went with Havana Journeys and they had a local guide and driver pick us up from our hotel and take us on the road trip. Typical trips to Viñales include a stop at the local tobacco farms where you learn how Cuban cigars are made, horseback riding, a stop at a cave, and a visit to the Mural de Prehistoria. (PS if you can pick, go to El Campesino for lunch. It's all open air with a beautiful view and they just keep bring your food plates after food plates.)
Play Larga. Just two hours southeast of Havana is where you'll find the cozy beach town of Playa Larga. It also happens to be where the Bay of Pigs happened. It also houses Zapata Peninsula, which is Cuba's largest wilderness area. Playa Larga is known for it's incredible scuba diving and that was our main reason we went. Diving costs $25 CUC if you're certified or $35 CUC if you need to take the quick class (that's totally in Spanish). Here, you can also find the world's smallest bird, the bee hummingbird.
La Vitrola (Plaza Vieja). This is where I had my first meal in Cuba. Plaza Vieja is one the four main squares in Havana and is loaded with tons of (touristy) restaurants. Not going to lie, I picked it because it had nice outdoor seating and all of the waiters were really attractive. Order the mojito with a beer in it, you won't be disappointed.
La Guarida (Centro Havana). This place is a must, so is a reservation, sometimes up to a month in advance. It's a bit unassuming on the outside: run down building down a skinny side street. Once you walk in though you'll see a grand staircase that leads you to an epic rooftop with incredible views framed by an actual massive picture frame. I actually got sick after eating here, but it's supposed to be one of the best restaurants in the city. Even if you can't get a reservation, get a drink at the rooftop bar.
HAV_Coffee&Art (San Isidro). Charming little coffee shop located inside of A|S Boutique Residence Hotel, with organic and vegetarian friendly dishes and walls adorned with artwork from local artists.
El Del Frente (Old Havana). A lot of people will tell you to go to O'Reilly 304 for great food and drinks. It's pretty small, so the owners opened up this spot across the street, serving up the same menu, and they direct visitors here when it's packed at O'Reilly's. This was probably my favorite spot I went to for drinks and had the best (and most beautiful) frozen daiquiri on a rooftop I've ever had. It's a super hip spot that I'd recommend everyone to go to. Definitely call ahead for a reservation and try to get a table on the rooftop. Incredible frozen drinks - get the mojito or daiquiri!
Al Carbon (Old Havana). This spot was recommended by the concierge at our hotel and gave me serious New Orleans vibes. It was decorated really cool and food was really good. They had my favorite dessert I had while in Cuba, some type of key lime pie.
Blanco Y Negro (Ciego de Avila). My friend's boyfriend lives right next to this restaurant and it was one of the best meals I had in Cuba. It's a two story little restaurant that is incredibly cheap for Americans (three meals and three beers for $10 USD). Whatever you do, get the frituras de malanga (taro root fritters). They changed my life and I ate them every opportunity I could during my trip.
El Cimarron (Vedado). I sadly discovered this spot on my last day and it was just right around the corner from my Airbnb. Huge open restaurant that is super vegetarian friendly and has great food.
El Flordita (Old Havana). Super touristy and most well-known for their daiquiris (this was Hemingway's go-to spot for them), but worth it to check out.
La Bodeguita del Medio (Old Havana): This is a pretty small bar in Old Havana that is known for being Hemingway's favorite spot to get a mojito. This place is always packed and always has great live music.
Yarini Habana (San Isidro). If you’re looking for a lively atmosphere for dinner or drinks and live jazz, this rooftop spot makes for the perfect night out.
Fábrica de Arte (Havana). Also knows as FAC, this place is hard to explain but know that you just need to go there. It's an art gallery, club, and overall bad ass spot where you'll find locals, tourists, teenagers, parents, literally everyone goes here. Pro tip: Get there early. Like really early (they open at 8PM), or else you'll have to wait in a Disney-like line. If you don't want to wait in line, be on the lookout for promoters that can help you skip the line for $10 (very worth it). When you get inside, you'll get a card where bartenders will write down all your drinks on it. When you leave, you have to turn it in and pay for everything. Don't lose the card or else you'll have to pay for it.
Bolabana (Miramar). A friend of mine took me here, as when she was visiting she went to this bar with her dad and met her now Cuban boyfriend (I was hopeful I'd find mine there as well). This is a pretty local bar, two levels, with great music to dance to and even better gin and tonics.
Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski (Old Havana). Whether you love or hate the idea of a 5 star hotel in the center of Old Havana, the rooftop view is worth checking out regardless. The hotel sits atop of an upscale shopping center also known as a museum because it's so expensive everyone just looks at it instead of buys from it. The hotel was recently built and it's quite expensive, but the rooftop infinity pool and view of the Capitol and the Great Theater are worth checking out.
Dador (Vedado). A contemporary shop housing conscious and sustainable local clothing.
Piscolabis (Centro Habana). Unique artwork and goods created by local artisans.
MATTY HABANA (Vedado). The cutest little artisan shops to pick up thoughtful souvenirs.
Ama (Vedado). A colorful shop inspired by the energy of life in Havana.
Alma Cuba Shop (Old Havana) Unique handmade goods from Cuban artists and designers.
Almacenes San José Artisans' Market (Centro Habana). A lively market filled with local vendors is open every day of the week except Monday. I snagged some handmade wooden shot glass souvenirs for my friends, and they engraved their names into them on the spot.